• 17 Posts
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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: June 12th, 2023

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  • How’s your grind size? You want to be a bit courser than espresso but finer than pour over.

    On my manual grinder, I use between 2.5 and 4.0 out of 10.0 for V60, and I found 2.0 works best for the moka.

    And are you doing any kind of puck prep?

    I just tap the basket with my finger to distribute the ground, I don’t do anything else. I don’t have a WDT, I will try to find a needle or toothpicks and try that.

    Have you played with paper filters at all?

    No, I don’t have this type of filter at hand.

    I will try to play with temperature, and maybe get myself a smaller moka pot, as this one is indeed a bit too big. It forces be to make a big batch every time.



  • I am trying to improve my Moka pot technique lately. I bought some cheaper beans for that to make many trials without too much remorse. They are very high roast despite the package stating it’s “5/10 intensity”.

    The coffee I obtain is pretty tasty when made into a milk drink (cappuccino or latte), but still very harsh and bitter on it own.

    I have also tried with some of the expensive beans I am currently enjoying as filtered coffee. The result was disgusting. Even worse than the cheap beans.

    I use the following method:

    • fill up the basket with coffee to the brim without compacting (for my Moka this is 25g of high roast beans or 30g of medium roast)
    • boiled water in a kettle then fill the moka lower chamber to the valve (that’s about 330~340g)
    • assemble the moka tightly
    • put on high heat for 1 minute (induction stove, the moka is compatible)
    • when the coffee starts coming up, immediately reduce heat to 5/9
    • switch off heat when the upper chamber is 2/3 full
    • steer the coffee and serve

    I am taking advice :)












  • Synapse@lemmy.worldtoSelfhosted@lemmy.worldNAS case
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    19 days ago

    If you go look for a used regular PC case, older model will typically have more 3.5" bays. By older, I mean +15yo.

    If you have access to a 3D printer, you have options to make more drive bays on the cheap.

    You will have to go for a modern power-supply still, in order to have enough SATA power plugs.


  • This always pisses me off. More than 10y ago everybody already said that electric vehicles would be the path forward and a necessary transition.

    What did the European car makers do back then ? They said “oh you want EV ? Really?! We will make you an EV” and they all made shit like this: MIA

    Toy looking ass plastic trashcans that don’t even have heating inside and can’t drive 50km on a good day.

    Then they said: “we made your EV, no one is buying it ! People don’t want EV !!!”

    Then Tesla made a successful electric luxury car and they never quit whining and crying since then, and eventually dragged their feet into making a normal looking electric car. (Disclaimer: No endorsement for Tesla. Elon has always be a sociopathic PoS. This was very clear from very long ago, I didn’t wait for the Nazi salute to hate him).



  • They are talking about the firmware that runs on the device. The user front-end to easily configure it is another story. Hopefully it’s going to quickly get support for Linux as they are starting from well established Open-source projects for keyboard firmware (QMK and ZMK). If it works like for keyboards, you will be able to configure your mouse with something like VIA that runs on Chrome/Chromium (and maybe one day Firefox ?) using the WebUSB API.

    I have 2 keychon keyboards, an old one and a newer one with QMK firmware. Both have worked perfectly well for Linux. The QMK one is easy to configure with VIA once the device permissions are sorted out.