If you’re sticking with Marlin, I’ve been very happy with the “professional” firmware. The configurator is pretty easy to set up if you change any hardware like a new bltouch or new hotend if that’s your thing.

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In the V2, the other side is occupied by a screw holding the tensioner in, but I was told I could use a T-nut and that would save me a lot of headache

Thank you!!! I have a fear that this is the start of the dark dark path of having a full workshop.

I’m starting from no knowledge here, so all advice is great! Do you mean this stuff? Or should I get the aluminum version?

Okay, I have no clue what I’m doing but I did look up a little bit on tapping and think I might be able to try that. Of all the threads to strip I think I may have gotten lucky. The screw doesn’t seem to do much other than keep the metal plate from sliding up and down (though I may be wrong) so I’m not too worried about strength I think.

What do you mean about the rod? Is this to buy a rod, cut it to size, use a die to thread it, and screw that in?

Is this a “good enough” tap? Looks like I’d need to get a wrench for it too?

Just uploaded it, thanks!

Not without the 12V. I’m pretty sure most of the internal electronics are dependent on that working. There’s an access port so you can “jump” the 12V with another car, which I think would then allow you to open the door though.

I don’t disagree there!

You can also “jump” the car to open it via a 12V access port in the front.