No problem. The S-video with the N64 should look better with the 2x pro but it might not be the best choice for the PS2. A lot of the PS2 library is 480i, which the 2x supports but it uses Bob deinterlacing. The GBScontrol is the best budget option since you can use motion adaptive deinterlacing (it does not support composite or S-video) I have seen some people recommend this pre built version. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804850466089.html

If you’re going with a scaler, it’s definitely worth it to invest in better cables (even though the n64 uses the same connector as snes, it does not support rgb without mods)

https://insurrectionindustries.com/product/nintendo-s-video/

https://insurrectionindustries.com/product/sony-playstation-rgb-scart-cable/

https://insurrectionindustries.com/product/super-nintendo-entertainment-system-rgb-scart-cable/

https://www.amazon.com/HD-Retrovision-Premium-YPbPr-Component/dp/B07TL6L7MY

Some helpful videos: https://youtu.be/VYkWtkvhS9c https://youtu.be/fi7csYj00BU

Also if you’re not too attached to using original hardware, you might want to take a look at getting a mister to play ps1 and before systems (the new super station is a good choice https://retroremake.co/pages/superstationᵒⁿᵉ )

I would say “probably”. A lot of TVs don’t have great scaling from 240p, 480p, and 480i content so a dedicated scaler will look better in most cases. Also be aware that the Ossc Pro does need an additional add-on for S-video (which for an unmodified N64 is its best output).

Upscaler is the correct term. If you are looking for the best possible image to recreate a CRT, the retrotink 4k is the best option. It will require a good TV though, something like a LG C4. The reason being to get good looking scanlines, you need 4k, 120hz, and vrr.

The retrotink 4k also supports all your inputs (Xbox 360 HDMI, n64 s-video, snes rgb, PS2 component, etc…).

Here is a good video why the 120hz is important for recreating the crt feel (a little old and retrotink 4k has only gotten better since then) https://youtu.be/3ZmPkozY6Cg

You other options for a good scaler are the Morph 4K and the ossc pro. This spreadsheet has a good in depth comparison between all three https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16FBPBD3A1vN_khznTUO1bGrb3LxTIQXfwWfusPeNSsw/edit?usp=drivesdk

I go through different switchers to various inputs of the retrotink4k. I avoid composite to keep it simple and get a better picture.

• Dreamcast -> VGA
• PS2 -> Component Switcher
• N64 -> Component Switcher
• GC -> HDMI GcVideo adapter (forcing 480p through swiss) -> HDMI Switch
• Nintendo Switch -> HDMI Switch

A quick way to test EM8 is to plug in the charger and check for voltage going to F1. Mine EM8 did have continuity through it, F1 was 0v so I figured it just became a little loose after removing the charging port.

No problem, we all have to start somewhere (I’m also more of a software guy). A tip for trace repair, get a cheap D2 grinding/engraving pen off Alliexpress. It’s a lot easier to use one of these than using a knife to scratch off the solder mask.

So in the case I looked at board scans from Natalie the Nerd to get a clear idea where each of the pads and traces went. After confirming continuity on those points and testing my reconnected traces, I knew the volume was still too low. I followed the traces via the board scan testing against my board with a multimeter on continuity mode, and eventually figured out there was a broken trace underneath the cartridge slot.

I actually just added a new charging port and it’s not charging (replaced a fuse, still nothing). I’ll probably have to do the process again to track this down.

Wobbling Pixels put together a good comparison between CE, Morph, and OSSC Pro. According to that sheet dealing with sync, the OSSC has issues with switching resolutions if the aspect ratio is set to 1:1 instead of something like 4:3

I’m not aware of any that are kept reliability in stock. You can get new sticks, gears and bowls (plastic ones that will have the same problem over time, but much cheaper). I would get new sticks to go with these bowls. https://store.kitsch-bent.com/products/n64-joystick-thumbstick

Thanks! Practice makes perfect

Ninten-drawer is a modern sliding replacement tray for the NES. It is more reliable than the cheap replacement 72 pin connector and doesn’t have a death grip on the cartridge. https://youtu.be/4lpCNMxGW3s

N64 controller stick modules work by spinning rotary encoders as the stick moves. The stick is and the bowl (typo in title haha) that keeps it in place are made of plastic. Overtime, both the stick and the bowl wear down and get loose. Using a steal bowl with a new stick keeps the original feel with much less grinding.

I get this is supposed to be a joke but why is it funny?

I like to take one step further and use a white pencil eraser followed by IPA. Helps get more of the dirt and oxidation off.

I’m going to take the lazy approach approach and go with the funny playing board. I would also have to buy one of their slots anyway since this also had a few mangled pins.

I would swap the power supply over to the new board before doing anything like a towel fix (generally those don’t last long term and risk damaging other parts of the system). It is possible to do reball yourself but it’s some of the most advanced soldering you can do. This video shows a similar process around the 18min mark(the chip in this case is a PS5 ssd controller) https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pJSheZ6A8Qo&t=671s&pp=2AGfBZACAQ%3D%3D

One thing to try is the washer fix. It probably wouldn’t work long term but it could tell you if your APU needs to be reballed https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/PlayStation+4+Turns+On+Then+Back+Off+Repair/55599

Definitely not spearmint, tastes too spicy

I’ve had luck using kapton around plastic parts. The fresh solder really helps melt the components quicker. I also use a nozzle to help concentrate the heat in the area and prevent it from blowing directly on plastic parts. Depending on the board, you can go no nozzle and heat from below (which is how I replaced a PS5 ribbon connector).