I made a quick gallery of my recent adventure taking apart two remotes which is shared below:
Sony Bravia TV Universal Remote
Onn 4K Plus Streaming Device Remote
Procedure: Both remotes had plastic tabs holding them together. I was able to pry them apart with a guitar pick (credit card would work too) and separate the body from the internal remote board. The Sony remote (Green circuit board) was kind enough to label the component as “MIC1” with the screen printing so I flipped it over and removed the black adhesive covering over the Mic hole. The Mic hole is very small and I did try a few things before settling for a #1 flathead screwdriver from my iFixIt kit. The irony of using that kit to destroy something is not lost on me here. Anyway, I placed the screwdriver into the empty Mic hole and applied firm even pressure and let the flathead dig into the board. I went slow and could tell I was making progress when the Mic component on the other side of the board lifted away. At that point I backed out the screwdriver and used tweezers to pull off the Mic. Then quick reassembly and testing and all functions were good!
For the Onn 4k Plus Streaming remote (Black circuit board) I was able to follow the same procedure above where I used the pick to open the remote, used the screwdriver to apply even pressure to screw into the Mic hole and lift the component from underneath until I could get tweezers under it. I did however encounter an issue where a copper trace lifted with the component. It was very thin and I peeled back only enough to get a razor blade under it and sever it from the board. Then re-assemble and tested with no issues. All in all, for me with experience taking electronics apart it was about 20 minutes of working. I have one more Onn remote and a Samsung remote with a solar charger on the back to do next.
To get ahead of the comments on why I didn’t use a razor blade or heat gun to remove the mic: I tried a razor blade at first on the Sony remote but discovered that the component was soldered so close to the board that I would have to destroy the screenprint to get underneath it. Unfortunately I don’t trust myself with a heat gun either since I didn’t have Kapton tape to protect the other components.
If there is enough interest I can post the reassembled remotes for matching them or images of the Samsung remote surgery when I do it as well. Hope you all find this encouraging for how to do it on your own!
Gallery of Images: https://postimg.cc/gallery/tHX4fyD
Never liked the idea of talking to a remote, and found the massive netflix button on my sony remote really offensive.
I’ve happily used a third party universal remote instead.My hot take: if you can’t trust the microphone in the device, you can’t trust the device and shouldn’t be using it at all to begin with.
Good point up until every available device has that “feature”. Eventually diy is the only way to go.
This is why technological workarounds are not a substitute for consumer protection regulation.
I mean, yeah. But that’s not the reality we live in.
We are pretty much already there.
Diy as in make a good device like kodi box, right?
right?
point of op still stands.
I feel like I’m taking crazy pills reading all these threads where people take pliers to their tv remotes.
Just use a razor blade to cut the traces. If you don’t know that you got them use a multimeter beep test to measure on either side of your cut.
There’s a chance that the trace leads to other ‘critical’ components and you may need to bridge the contacts.
I have never seen any implementation of a microphone that has “critical” components in series with it.
I’d advise against that from an engineering perspective because microphone failure is often a break in the conductive path and standard troubleshooting of non audio in failures generally doesn’t place a high priority on checking mics for continuity.
Even on a throwaway component like a remote, requiring microphone continuity would introduce unnecessary complexity and more chance for problems.
As someone who has destroyed many PCBs, peeling off components can peel off the contacts traces. It can even pull contacts and traces from the underside of the board if the component is soldered through the board, like that LED probably is.
Noice.
just use kapton tape, flux and a heat gun.
Yes, but most people don’t even have one of those 3, let alone all 3.
To get ahead of the comments on why I didn’t use …
they just didn’t have kapton tape, it’s worth buying or you can get heat resistant tape at any local hardware store
I would like to do this too




